TIME TO TURN THE CAMERA ON MYSELF
I know my limitations, and I know that in waves that size I wasn‘t going to get what I wanted, so I had to wait for the waves to chill out a bit before I could get in the water. In that time I lost the people I was supposed to be shooting with to their normal lives, and the waves hadn‘t lost their menace. It was time to do something that I don‘t really like to do, but I‘ve become increasingly good at. It was time to turn the camera on myself.
At Sunset, I walked down to the beach carrying a standup paddleboard, my camera gear, a tripod, and my intervalometer. I stood on Rocky Point; behind me one of the sponsor houses was packed with pro surfers standing on the deck watching the sunset. In front of me, empty 25-foot waves were crashing on shore. There was no way I was going to be able to paddle out there. This was going to be humiliating.
I framed up my image, set my intervalometer to take an image every three seconds, and started running around the frame, posing in different positions and holding it awkwardly in front of the sunset viewers. I saw some smirks, and I could read their minds when they thought I was a “kook“. The most feared insult handed out by surfers.